06 January, 2011

Dec 24, 2010

Day 6 Ashoofak bokra, see you tomorrow

Chilled out on the beach all over again. Soaked in the rays. Read a book on logic, and waxed philosophical. We had a delicious mixed-grill lunch while Anne was fascinated by restaurant kitties. Tonight the moon, just past full was fat and low and beautiful, glittering on the water. Called home to the family to wish a Merry Christmas but barely got through.

Still need a scarf.

Dec 23, 2010

Day 5: mish kweyyis, bad

After a hard day’s beaching, we went to the Hard Rock Cafe for a truly delicious burger. But we got ripped-off by our sleazy cabbie (basically giving us .50 change instead of L.E. 50). We swore off taking any more taxis if we can help it, especially since the constant bargaining is so stressful. Met a nice Egyptian who had lived in Sweden and sold us some perfume and invited us for tea. Then watched L.A. Confidential with Arabic sub-titles.

Dec 22, 2010

Day 4: kweyyis, good
Up early. Minor dose of paranoia while we figure out where to stow our valuables for the day. The answer made me feel like James Bond.
Whole day snorkeling as our big excursion out. At first I wasn’t so sure (I get seasick) but it was a concession to Anne, just like when we visited the Bahamas because I love my wife. Turns out it was an easy choice to make: calm seas and no intestinal distress.
The Red Sea is gorgeous. The still blue water just lolls one to stillness. We stopped at Giftun’s white sand beaches... How is it that there are guys with shell necklaces at every beach in the world? Who unified these guys’ business models? The beach was a sea of people from around Europe. My favorite was the middle age punk couple with the partially shaved head and leopard spot dye-job.
As it was too cold to get in just yet, we stayed dozing in the sun and listening to all these languages, and I thought of the Tower of Babel. A lot of Bible stories are coming to mind, being in Egypt. We’re not going out to Sinai, but I wish we were. Next time.
Then we went snorkeling at a reef with some of the most beautiful fishes and coral. It was spectacular. And such colors! We were so cold our lips were purple and Anne’s wedding ring was in serious jeopardy of decorating the bottom of the Sea instead of her cold finger.
Finally, we had lunch, which was delicious and caught from the sea. And warmed up a bit. Our guide, Slim, was fantastically friendly and told us stories about celebrities in Sharm El Sheik (Michael Jordan, Leo DiCaprio, Beyonce) while working as a paparazi. We liked him so much we made a new friend, and we’ll meet up with him later. And he made us funny hats out of beach towels. Felt very kräftskiva. We went to the New Marina, which is a santitized kind of tourist towne centre development. But, it was really nice...




Dec 21, 2010

Day 3: Mafeesh Mushkilla

I means "No Problem." Today we are taking it easy. Chillaxing, if you will. Out on the beach, no problems & no worries.

I think we’re setting ourselves up for success in that, with no plans, there’s little to get in our way. Except lunch.

Learning a few more Arabic words a day, now as well:

thank you - shukran
please - min fadlak
you’re welcome - ‘afwan

Ate at the resort for lunch and dinner as part of my feeling of seclusion from the hustle and flow of the street, to really get in the mind-set that we’re on vacation. Our resort’s okay. They clearly spend more on the gardens than the rooms, but maybe that was a choice they had to make with limited budget.

We’re becoming regulars with our beach attendant with Hassan making our own spot ready for us before we get there. Pretty cool.


The resort's resident camel...his name was Ali Baba

Dec 20, 2010

Day 2: Humda’allah

Getting ourselves going by 11:00 we found ourselves refreshed, even in day-old clothes. Yes our room has patches, and broken glass on the floor from various glasses or lightbulbs, and a shoddy lock without a room safe. But today is about being thankful for what life brings us.

Going out to the sensory overload of the strip was somehow easier in the daylight and a few blocks down we had omelets at the Omar Café and our first taste of Egyptian Coffee. Thinner than Turkish Coffee and seasoned with cardamom & cinnamon. Delicious.

I can’t state enough the difference having 10 hours sleep, a shower, and coffee made. I felt myself unwinding from the paranoia of traveling, taking on a “what will be, will be” approach. Maybe it was the Egyptian hiphop, or the sound of it blending with the call to prayer. The hospitality was friendly, but the change in my attitude was priceless. While still on my guard for all the necessities of travel, and avoiding being conned, I gave over to let our trip be what it would be, and that brings me to thankfulness.

We came across the concept of fate early. Life brings events to you, and it is up to the individual to choose how we may accept them. (This reminds me of a Hawaiian t-shirt with sayings from college: No rain, no rainbows; The unaimed arrow never misses; and two ways to be rich--earn more or desire less.)

I was thinking of this while enjoying our breakfast instead of fretting over our late luggage, etc. In being happy that we’re here with the sunlight and the blue beaches; even if in yesterday’s underwear, I can be thankful. Luggage will come, just as the sun will rise again. There are a lot of travelers stuck across Europe, and we were lucky to make it out.

One can’t help but notice the differences in our lifestyle in Sweden while in Egypt. Tourist Police with automatic weapons (for our protection, like in Mexico), barbed wire... all of Hurghada really is here for rich Westerners (well, and Russians). The grounds of our resort receive more attention than our rooms, after all, the trees don’t water themselves. I expect a lot of our trip will include humbling examples of things only here for our benefit. Some of them I may be more grateful for than others.

We have it so good in our country. But I’m hopeful that things will get better here soon. Egypt’s economy is set to take off like many other emerging countries. I’m most thankful that millions of people I’ll never meet will know higher standards of living...

It’s also incredible to sit in a cafe in Egypt with Arabic on the Heinz and Chinese on the set of toothpicks. I can’t help but think of our crazy, shrinking world.

Unwanted attention is difficult to deal with, like cat-calling on the street. You feel like the snotty foreigner ignoring all the calls of “my friend” from strangers. We should find a different experience with our tour group...we’ll see.

Most of the afternoon has been palm trees, blue skies & seas. It’s sooooo nice! In fact, that’s all we want is to chill. Relax and get past the snowy winter.

It’s great to travel together again. Oh, the places we’ll go. Part of coming here has been to see things we’d never see anywhere else, and have an unforgettable experience. Part is to unwind and enjoy moments of quiet. (I’ve really been looking forward to unplugging and slowing down.) But all of it will be spending time together. We’ve gotten quite good at it. A lot of our recent visitors made us realize what we look like to outside eyes: smoochie kids in love. We don’t get that perspective as often since moving to Stockholm and spending all of our time with each other.

 
The funny thing is how synced we are with each other (it’s shocking when we’re not) that we even flipped the breakfast menu in the same way this morning. Anne and I are awful good at taking care of each other.

Egypt! Dec 19, 2010

Day 1: Insha’allah
Getting to our hotel took some doing, but then we were the ones who chose a two-leg flight. Vienna was a challenge as airports had been closing Dec 18-19 for unprecedented snow. We packed for Egypt as lightly as possible, so when we disembarked on the -11C tarmac wearing only a fleece pullover for warmth I desperately yearned for Cairo’s 22C. The connection was a confusing one with Austrian Airlines priniting only our boarding pass from Stockholm, and made worse by the requirement of a 2nd security check before we reached our gate. The result was no Duty Free, and a hastily chugged Starbucks. Nooo! Alas, liquids. Much of our tour will be dictated by the fluid state of matter it seemed.
Cairo airport. Was incredibly easy, so much so that I was suspicious. For example, we can go to Duty Free after arrival. (In a Muslim country it is best to be discreet when purchasing alcohol, and thus pack your own.) Our friend at the counter did us the “favor” of not sealing the bag. Which meant that two separate security check seemed to desire bribes in order to let us through with our $14 bottles of vodka. Not worth it: cheap for Sweden prices, but guidebooks and my instincts mean that you can get into more trouble putting cash into the hands of someone wearing a uniform than your bribe will buy you out of. This is an odd experience of panic for the uninitiated, and an adrenaline rush for sure... One I dealt with by pretending not to understand the context, which I’m sure there were layers I was missing any way. And Anne got us through by pointing out that the time on the receipt was mere moments ago.

The days leading up to our travel were oddly stressful moments, blending panic of the past (did we do everything we needed to wrap-up our projects?), the present (how to fit in all the last minute details of life, holiday parties, and getting our place ready to rent out) AND the future (not knowing how to prepare for what lie ahead.) Wow, just listing all that out, I’d say we were “pretty keyed up”. We had gotten up at 4am and so when we got to our shabby little hotel, all we wanted was to sleep. I actually went to bed “without any dinner” preferring to deal with the sights and sounds of Hurghada the next day rather than to invite any more potential hassle.
Hurghada is like a Cancun for Russian tourists. It’s also in varying states of con- and  de- struction, so the sidewalks are more treacherous to ankles than Itaewon in Seoul. Gaudy casino lights, discos, souvenir shops, honking taxis. When I opened my taxi door upon arrival I had to stop short lest I hit the camel sauntering by the strip. I almost hit an honest-to-God camel with my car door! Suddenly, I felt very far from home and that I shouldn’t be writing this: Hunter S. Thompson should.
Alas, our room was more than an hour in getting ready (“Just 5 minutes” Egyptian Time) and we were promised assistance with our lost bags while being hustled for excursions we didn’t want. We just wanted our bags and quiet.
What we’ve learned today in the guidebook (Footprints) about Egyptian travel, culture, history, food, safety, crime, and language all stresses patience. This adds up to the phrase insha’allah, god willing, but it’s used for expressions about the future. Det ska bli bra or hopefully. I hope for many things on this trip, but we will have to wait and see what fate brings.


My favorite Egypt purchase


I thought I'd show off the most interesting thing that found its way back to Stockholm in our bag. I bought next-to-nothing, despite how cheap it all was. And hey, it has directions in Arabic and Farsi, and was less than half the price of a box in Sweden. I also have a bday coming up, so I thought I'd make Stu's life easier!

More soon. In fact, I'd say get ready for an onslaught of Egypt...we took 1000 pictures and Stu kept a journal. But now, laundry...so much sand in everything!