More boat. More river. Thoughts drifting along with the current, between Heart of Darkness and Huck Finn.
I smelled like woodsmoke and mosquito repellent but I am happy. In the afternoon we stopped at Kom Ombo temple (woohoo, a real toilet!). Situated at a curve in the Nile and dedicated to falcon-headed Horus and Sobek, the crocodile god. We took coffee in a cushioned tent and enjoyed live musicians playing traditional music. Our guide explained this was a dual place of healing and appeasement to the crocs (since gone, with the High Dam). There were massive, breath-taking hieroglyphs and a ruined wall where you can see a secret passage the priests used to whisper to worshipers as the Mouth of God.